as with most trips, my initial expectations were far different from what i have come to see, to do and ultimately, to know. there are really no words to describe south africa. it is as beautiful as it is complex. its history is as torn and broken as it is quilted with the most powerful symbols of hope, transformation, and redemption. it is a place that i have come to love, to appreciate and to desire for more.

i thank my mom, dad, brother, the rest of my family, friends and coworkers who have supported me unconditionally throughout this entire month and the days leading up to august 1. i give special thanks to daniel kim and rosetta stander for making this trip happen and for giving me the opportunity of a lifetime – i could not have done it without them both and the encouragement they’ve given me.

to audrey, phume, mavis, thule, zama, mildred, pilani, andile, retha, SLOT program coordinators, and the rest of the unsung heroes of the zimele community – you are the heart and soul, and the makers of change. thank you for making me a part of your life. and to the countless women, men and children of swayimane who continue to live their days with a fierce intensity that most of us may never come to know and bear – you have all given me new life and a new set of eyes to what is possible for humanity.

to the brits family and friends. you all have a very special place in my heart and i will never forget the memories that i’ve shared with each and every one of you – miranda, max, stefan, petrus, chris, dave, stuart, bee, ali, murray, nick, ine, paul, wayne, and the best dogs known to man - bobby and tissie. i know now what it means for God to bring people into lives. you have each made a meaningful impact on my life and i am forever grateful. we will be seeing each other more and i am already planning my next visit soon! in the meantime, new york is always ready and waiting for you. finally, i thank God for keeping me safe and for teaching me to let go of myself. i give my life to Him.

i look forward to being home and i can’t wait to see everyone again.

love,

after miranda had left for work, rosetta and i spent the remainder of the morning at her place to review the months work and discuss future projects that need development support. at her request and my acceptance, i plan to join the zimele US board to continue efforts in fund raising and capacity building. over more and more cups of tea – we shared many stories of our personal upbringing, our family, our careers and the mix of experiences that brought us both here. we share a common vision and i know that we’ll work together for many years to come.

afterwards, miranda and i drove over to the university of kwazulu-natal at the westville campus near durban, to meet with professor singh and his colleague martin to discuss the wartburg project – which aims to survey areas like swayimane in search for new areas of growth. it was quite an interesting conversation. if there was one thing i learned from it, it’s that the greatest obstacle that stumps most development work in areas like swayimane is land governance, which hampers efforts to improve overall infrastructure and cash flow from local businesses to outside markets. what one may find instead (as i have personally discovered) is that in isolation, subsistence and government handouts reinforces the deadly cycle of poverty that impacts both the family unit and ultimately – the new generations that follow and subsequently suffer from it. how does one break this isolation? we all seem to agree that no external ‘force’ can be responsible for such a change, but that a different kind of change has to occur from the inside out – from the very hearts and inner minds of the people who are entrenched in this sea of poverty. and it is to this point that i believe zimele is doing something right. martin also added a particularly insightful to the point that – contrary to popular belief – the notion of ‘zulu culture’ is very much stigmatized and varied at best (even amongst the zulus themselves) – that issues like the oppression of women are not necessarily a direct result of zulu culture or tradition, but is in fact muddied by the very opposite behavior found throughout zulu history; king shaka had the utmost respect for his own mother and to the women of his time.

in regards to the current progress being made, martin and singh explained that they gave their students carte blanche to carry out their research, and expected little to no contact with them until the very final day of presentation on sept. 18/19. in this vein, they hope to see this level of autonomy yield a broader spectrum of results. i was invited to the forum, but since i will not be around then – we are working together to set up a remote webcast under the condition that I can assemble a few interested students from the NY area business schools to attend as well. this is an exciting opportunity, and i cannot wait to follow its progress!

anyhow, it’s been a long day – but it’s officially a wrap. i’m sad to know that i will be spending my last supper with the brits tonight – especially with stefan, ali, and murray away for the weekend, but nevertheless – i toast to another great evening with my new south african family!

mildred and i spent most of the day following up on our conversation about exploring new ways to improve the state of home-based care and how the possibility of remote health monitoring systems may have an immediate and significant impact on chronic disease patients who suffer from diabetes, hypertension, and other conditions that swallow up resources at the clinic that could otherwise be better served for more urgent cases. the need to address this problem is clear and every clinician who understood the impact has given me personal requests to quickly bring back more information. there is a lot of work for me to do on this end, and i hope to bring some capacity to this effort. in honesty, i didn’t expect to receive such a high level of interest. but i am quickly realizing that there may be no better time than right now to quickly mobilize the right resources and initiate a plan of action.

winterton is a beautiful village about 2 hrs from maritzburg and falls right beneath the backdrop of the drakensberg mountains. although the strains of poverty are highly visible and similar to those of swayimane, i can’t help but notice a stark difference in the general cleanliness of the area – less refuse lying around the roads and border lines, as well as better spaced out land property. it is possible that there is a much higher level of government involvement and investment in this area due to its proximity to the berg and the rich farm economy surrounding the townships, but whatever the reason – i can sense that there is a uniquely strong spirit of creativity and an insatiable hunger for a better life.

at noon, audrey and i met up with zama – a young energetic girl who has been training under zimele as a community facilitator and has already played a key role in spreading the creation of new self-help savings groups among the crafts women. although the crafts program at winterton has been running its course through the talents and work-ethic of these women, they have also identified the potential benefits of social accountability and group savings that would reinforce both their businesses and general well-being. i would be remiss, however, if i did not mention betta – the driving force behind the entire crafts program. betta is a remarkable afrikaans women who has lived with the bushmen for 15 yrs, and is now devoting her life and passion for crafts to the women of this wonderful community. she continues to play an enormous role in developing the next phase of crafts and is currently working with both rosetta and stefan to devise a roadmap that will set the stage for higher-quality commercialization and long-term sustainability.

together with audrey and zama, we visited the ‘isibonelo’ group at the crafts center – who were busy sewing bags and christmas angels, and also busy accepting my payments for each . this group of 7 has been able to collectively save R1218 (R220 cash on hand) that has been used to provide for various social needs such as food and school fees, as well as to fund raw materials and livestock for individual businesses that range from chicken farms to clothing re-sale. we were pleased to hear how these women were utilizing the group savings to better their lives socially and actively building assets around their individual businesses on top of their crafts effort. likewise, ‘thuthukani’ – a group of 10 members who specialize in beadwork – have already saved over R1000 since march. they too have managed to utilize loans to stimulate their own small businesses such as selling eggs and sweets, to tobacco products and airtime for mobile accounts.

there is a noticeable difference and shift in the general temperament of these women, compared to what i’ve seen in the women of swayimane – though i cannot put my finger on why. perhaps it’s the unique area and infrastructure, or individual family histories that have fostered a more aggressive goal-oriented mindset. i would be interested to find out more – but as a whole, they seem to share an inherent ability to collaborate with one another, utilize their creative drive to produce real tangible results, and with the recent adoption of self-help groups, promote a positive spirit of accountability and well-being.

after the game, we hung out on the terrace overlooking the entire city of maritzburg. the estate is an impressive and beautiful plot of land – and was bought for only R600000 in 2003 (~$60,000)! there is an expanse of farm land where cattle and wild pigs are raised, and the property is surrounded by the most beautiful reservoirs occupied by swans and geese. extending out towards the back, there is literally an entire kingdom of cottages that chris has been building and maintaining over the past 6-7 years – all of which are inhabited by staff members or other families. you can tell that the entire place has been built with an impeccable eye for quality and is completely sourced by the areas own natural resources. quite amazing.

meanwhile, ali (miranda’s niece), who is in town from the cape, had been busy hosting a bachelorette party for her friend with 28 other girls at the dunaverty – though it was only a matter of time before the men would invade the premises and set the stage for the ‘unofficial’ max and chris show – the real knoxvilles of maritzburg.

after sundown – max, chris, stefan and i settled out into the backyard and fired up the grill to braai us some lamb chops, pork and sausages – filling up our wine glasses in between and chattering away through the night with stories that had us all laughing on our knees. i’ve never been happier to meet such stand-up guys. they are all such brilliant men with the most incredible histories and perspectives i have ever come across and they each share such an immense joy and passion for living. they will remain close brothers the day i leave this country through to the day i come back. i love them all dearly.

the remainder of the night was filled with festivities, new friends, song and dance, amarula and wine, beautiful desserts and cocktails, and an abundance of good conversation that would last throughout until the early hours of the morning … to a final close of the most memorable weekend yet.

the course started off with an icebreaker where each person would sing and dance for 30 seconds to the ‘vaselina’ song – the zulu reference to the vaseline product (yes, the ointment!) that somehow inspired andile to make this a symbol for ‘shining in the light’ (perhaps because vaseline makes you shine??).

anyways, i was completely terrified – and it all happened so fast that i don’t quite remember how i managed to dance for 30 seconds – but for whatever its worth, i had these kids laughing hard! soon after settling down from all the ruckus, the students were back in their seats and kindly asked to charter their own code of conduct – each student would walk up to the board and write down a rule that they felt embodied good and respectful behavior.  the group would then discuss it and agree upon whether or not it should be included in the charter.  i felt that this exercise was quite clever since it encouraged everyone to contribute their own sense of respect towards the individual (and themselves) and helped them also to establish a spirit of accountability from the very beginning.

once the code of conduct was finalized, we were each given a sheet of paper that was folded into a booklet and on each successive page were told to:

• draw a picture of ourselves and write the name of our favorite song
• draw a picture of our family members
• write down 5 things about ourselves, where 1 is a lie
• write down our expectations

my conclusion from all of this?  everyone loves chris brown and almost everyone lies about being a doctor

during the next hour, they were given a multiple choice exam that tested their basic understanding of current events and issues affecting South Africa such as HIV/AIDS, crime, and money/employment.  meanwhile, retha had posted on the board:

“eyes that look are common, but eyes that see are rare” - a quote by j. oswald sanders

it’s the first time i’ve seen this quote, but i really like it.  i remember sitting there thinking to myself how important this message really is – about the power of choice/will, and the readiness to embrace vision.  for many of these kids, it is a matter of affirming their own self-worth and regaining the confidence they need to excel and reach their personal life goals.  andile and retha were absolutely brilliant in taking their time to make sure everyone understood the importance of this vision, and encouraged everyone to voice their own opinions and doubts.  all throughout, it was really impressive to see how these kids were responding to each other and slowly molding this concept into their own realities.

the rest of the afternoon was spent on defining different types of goals (short, mid, long, life) and the importance of planning ahead and reacting positively to failures.  it was a rigorous 2 hours of discussion, interactive visuals and fun games that really left me with a positive feeling of hope. there is nothing to stop these kids from succeeding and i really do believe that each one of them have the potential to become leaders in their own families and communities.

programs like SLOT life skills really do change lives.

earlier this week, i met with mildred who is driving the core of efforts to establish and distribute home-based care for those who are suffering from TB, HIV/AIDS and other diseases.  these are people who either cannot afford treatment or whose family has abandoned them in their own rooms to be left to suffer and in many cases, die.  i have yet to witness this kind of destruction with my own eyes, but i am constantly surrounded by stories of tragic illnesses and deaths where the very essence of humanity is stripped away up to the very last hours of life.  i believe somewhere around 1 in 4 people in swayimane will experience death without care.  i’m only beginning to understand the degree of courage and selflessness that one must acquire to put themselves in front for these people – to care for them, to nourish them, and to commune with them so that they too, can know that they are worthy and are men and women of dignity.  mildred is one of the rare few who puts herself in these very shoes and understands the real need for compassion to serve those who suffer and have been abandoned from their own habitat.

her role is a vital one, and i hope to see her efforts grow in combating this terrible reality.  the HIV/AIDS epidemic continues to burn like a raging fire and the consequences are perpetually devastating.  more often than not, it feels like a losing battle – but there must be a stronger resolve to build the lives of these people with better education, poverty alleviation, strengthening of family units, reduction (eradication) of gender inequality – and above all, revival of ubuntu that is most needed to bring these life decisions into perspective.

with regards to home-based care, i feel there is a real opportunity here to build a network of community health workers that can promote preventive care, collect public-health related information, encourage treatment and reliably detect those at risk for TB, AIDS, and other debilitating diseases.  swayimane has only 1 health clinic, and the efforts that mildred is fighting so hard to sustain can be overly exhausting and limited.  mobile technology can and should play a huge role here, and i am working hard to promote ideas of remote health monitoring systems that can lift transport barriers and better track disease symptoms to encourage care-seeking behavior.  creating a network of community health workers with the right tools could also act as a stimulus to create new jobs and services that could benefit groups like zimele SHGs by providing additional means for them to obtain new skills and further stimulate the local economy.

together, we spent the morning hours treading through the july reports, reviewing operational expenses, sharing any newsworthy items, as well as laying down immediate concerns and addressing minor logistical issues.  rosetta also took this opportunity to articulate what she felt was her real vision, which was to build a social entrepreneurship engine (social business) as the driving force behind zimele – where goods and services such as crafts and agricultural assets would eventually form the backbone of a marketplace that would stimulate both the local and global economy.  realizing this vision will be immensely difficult, as the mindsets and cultural forces of the zulu community have to be met with a fierce intensity, where the people have to cultivate an environment for themselves where they can be empowered to make their own choices through a better education system, incentive and the long arduous process of community development that is necessary to heal the scars of a broken history.

we also took some time to discuss the specifics of the project i am tasked with, which is to continue documenting the efforts of various self-help groups in swayimane, identifying their potential business opportunities, exposing personal stories of their progress and improvement as well as hurdles, and to build a compelling picture around the transformation of these women’s lives on a scale both big and small.  to this day, the scope of such information has been difficult to obtain due to communication barriers and lack of a systematic approach that involves asking the right questions and properly documenting their responses.  but these stories are extremely valuable and will serve to be a vital resource for both internal operations as well as providing feedback for the process of securing funding/donations for investment rounds that require concrete performance measurements.  rosetta’s advice to me was simple, yet extremely helpful — to be reminded that relationship-building is paramount when trying to materialize stories that can be very personal and private – rather than taking a strict business-minded approach.

newsworthy items that we also covered were cluster-level projects that are really starting to take shape,
such as the advent of vegetable gardening training, knitting / beadwork projects, and home-based care initiatives that community members are now taking into their own hands.  the role that zimele will be playing in these home-based care initiatives is still unclear, and a proper assessment has to be made with regards to treating the effort as either a social project or a larger endeavor that requires further funding, training and potential partnerships.

some other important issues that were raised dealt with quality control within the zimele crafts program, citing the need to promote a better system or methodology to ensure that only the best products reach the market.  in a similar vein, we also discussed the need to develop higher levels of creative thinking among community facilitators to help them better identify potential assets that could lead to new opportunities.

finally, there was mention about the need to begin taking the initial steps to build out the commercial arm of zimele, the other piece of the puzzle that would complement the social arm.  stefen, our new volunteer, comes from belgium and brings with him many years of business development expertise that really makes him a great fit for this task.  he arrived from the airport just this afternoon and will be my new roommate at the dunaverty.

these next two weeks are going to be super busy.

2 days is more or less an abomination to the cape town experience, but i can honestly say that my days here could not have been spent any better. having arrived to the airport with zero time to waste, i flew in a cab to the ashanti backpacker lodge where i temporarily park my bags and was greeted by my mountaineer guide for the day, mr. robin kayser, who was patiently waiting for me at the gate. in just a few minutes, we were already en-route in the car to hike a full day at table mountain. the weather was absolutely gorgeous with not a single cloud in the sky.

however, i would only realize upon arriving there – that i hadn’t eaten either breakfast or lunch since getting up at 3am. embarking on a rigorous 4 hr hike with 3 hours of sleep and no real food in my stomach was the least favorable situation to be in.  with only a small bag of trailmix, bottled water and camera, i suffered my way through a rather treacherous path filled with plenty of steep climbs and unmarked trails. soon, i was beginning to wonder why i had opted for the advanced route, but it was already too late to fret and for nearly 2 hours, i struggled every bit of the way, holding on to each last sinew of leg muscle available – wondering if i’d ever (really) make it to the very top. i believe at one point i asked robin if helicopter rescue teams were operating that day in case i collapsed from fatigue and muscle cramps

yet, despite the physical weariness on my part, we made it to the top in one piece and without a single word exchanged between the two of us, we stood out on the rocks riding against the sharp cold breeze – relishing every angle of the spectacular view that covered the body of the cape, stitched together by its network of docks and wharfs along the atlantic coastline, and stretching out as far as robben island to the distant and majestic snow-capped mountains lining the opposite side of the coast. if there is one place on earth where one comes face to face with fear and awe, it is on top of a mountain.

later that evening, nick (miranda’s son) and his girlfriend ine, swung by to pick me up at the lodge to meet up with his folks, aunt and uncle for a wonderful dinner at the wijnhuis in stellenbosch. the food was fantastic and the wine pairings were quite good. we sat there for at least 3 hours, losing all sense of time and worry – instead, wholly delighted to be in the presence of good company, wrapped in a perfectly warm and intimate setting.  the ideal way to end an otherwise long and exhausting day.

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the next morning was another action-packed day touring the peninsula and cape point. we started off early morning through drizzle and fog to travel along the scenic coastal route down to Huit Bay and then hopped on a boat cruise to catch the seals at Duiker Island. from there, we headed towards the boulders beach penguin colony in simons town to view the african penguin in their own natural habitat. after a short break, we packed up our lunches and paved our way into table mountain national park where we cruised all the way down on our bikes to the cape of good hope, the southern most tip of SA. the initial drizzle and overcast skies soon turned into sun and blue skies just in time for a perfect afternoon of biking, alongside our friendly ostriches and baboons. at the very tip of cape point, we hiked another 2-3 kilometers up the mountain peak where we spent the last remaining hours enjoying some of the most absolutely stunning views and forging new friendships that have made this trip all the more worthwhile.

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this weekend marks my halfway point here in SA. though it saddens me to know that i only have 2 weeks left before i head back to the states, i can already say that my time here has pushed me deeply to live with greater purpose and resolve – through the many relationships that have helped me see with clear eyes – the life that we are meant to be living on this earth.

today was yet another busy day without the field vehicle. miranda and i drove up to swayimane to visit the creche and drop off the new toys for the kids. these kids, ages 1-5, are absolutely the most adorable kids on earth. they welcomed us with their songs, dusted their fingers off their pants, and jumped at every chance to get their hands on these new puzzles, legos, balls and the most popular of all – the mini motor-cars!

next, we stopped by the swayimane computer center, which was an absolute delight to see. they had two rows of 4-6 machines, half of which were donated by zimele and the others by computers for africa (CFA). there was a class being taught by lawrence, the only instructor at the moment – who was teaching the students all about the lovely world of desktop shortcuts! for R100, students have access to the lab and class sessions where they work their way through basic computer skills, MS-Office applications and web training. i have great faith in both the computer lab as well as the newly built library, and strongly believe it will have a tremendous impact on the people of swayimane – opening lots of new doors for their future. i am already in discussion with zimele staff to explore new ways in which we can utilize information technology to better assist group training and savings monitoring. the computer lab is definitely the first step in the right direction!

on the way back, we visited the town of clarendon to drop by the john peattie house, a home for physically and mentally disabled persons. miranda is a member of the 31club, a local charity organization, through which she had recently donated new floors to cover up unsafe damages that were causing a few of the residents to trip and injure themselves. as we walked through the hallway to inspect the new floorwork, i was introduced to a few of the residents there – who all seemed to believe i was jason hartman. jason who??

i googled jason hartman only to find out he’s the winner of the fifth season of Pop Idol, South Africa! — i’ll take that as a compliment even though he’s white and i’m asian

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later this afternoon, i heard back from professor anesh singh, head of the graduate school of business at the university of kwazulu-natal, who expressed great interest in setting up a meeting with me next week to discuss an assignment his students were recently tasked with – which is to explore new development models that would potentially secure economic development in the rural district of wartburg where they have good soil, water and electricity. i cannot wait to learn more about what these students have discovered thus far.

i am absolutely thrilled about our appointment and am especially looking forward to discussing how information technology can help.

it was an absolutely warm and gorgeous day this afternoon. miranda and i decided to break the day and spend an hour or two at a nearby cafe to enjoy a nice cup of coffee with some apple crumb pie. we shared some really good conversation about potential growth opportunities, new development models and some of the ways information technology could be integrated into zimele’s overall strategy. but all operations aside, we couldn’t agree more to the tremendous challenges that lie ahead – those that are deeply sensitive and often make us feel frustrated and at times, defeated — the absolute horror and legacy of oppression, the lack of widespread education, traditional belief systems and disruption of family structures that stifle economic growth and worsen the aids pandemic.

kwazulu-natal is a manifestation of many of these problems and i can already experience its uneasy mix of poverty and wealth. one minute, you’re driving on well-paved roads passing through malls, farmers markets, upscale groceries, shiny car dealerships, craft centers, museums and of course – the corner mcdonalds and the next – you’re passing by the informal settlements embedded in refuse and piles of excrement, dodging goats that meander along the side of the roads, driving around people who dangerously cross busy streets at will, and landing on abandoned roads that make you feel like you’re tumbling through a landfill.

in light of all this, i find it especially interesting to hear how many of the white locals feel about the rich/poor dichotomy, in particular – their view of “african black” culture. many of them feel that the zulu people are a ‘lazy’ people, and possess a work ethic that keep them at the lower rungs of society due to a lack of education, rural life and subsistence. they further cite examples such as government grant/pension policies that perpetuate the hand-out system, granting R200 per child for low-income families that cause a dangerously unintended side-effect of producing unwanted children for the sake of ‘free’ extra money – a fact that is unquestionably linked to the recent and growing trend of south african mothers abandoning their babies due to lack of financial support – a pressing issue just recently covered by CNN last week.

but the most common blow to the zulu people in light of education – that i’ve seen – is criticism to the president himself, jacob zuma. the controversial and equally disturbing comment on his sexual conduct and complete ignorance of the AIDS virus cannot bode well for a vision of renewal and reconstruction.

“the national aids helpline is being inundated with calls about whether taking a shower after unprotected sex can minimise the risk of contracting HIV. This is as a direct result of the ‘misleading’ statements relating to HIV prevention made by jacob zuma during his rape trial last week.

The former deputy president told the johannesburg high court that he took a shower – after having sex with the HIV-positive complainant without a condom – as he believed this minimised his risk of contracting the disease.”

how can this be?

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is this ignorance on the side of privileged whites?

are we failing to hear and see the perspectives of the african blacks that are struggling to maintain their economic status – as well as their dignity?

or is it not so much a color issue at all – but a very unfortunate circumstance that results from years of oppression where efforts to level the playing field quickly become entrenched in a deadlock of finger pointing and blame?

the boat ride turned out to be a lot of fun.  we grazed the waters for a few hours, catching magnificent views of hippos and crocodiles at close distance.  what can be more relaxing than sitting out on the deck under the rays of the sun in the midst of hippos and crocs?

after unloading from the dock and arriving back on land, we hung out at the fishermans club for a few hours enjoying a nice lunch with the gang and shortly after, made a pit-stop at the crafts market,

where we ate these wonderfully sweet pineapples and browsed through all sorts of beadwork, bracelets, pottery, woodwork – gifts for our friends and family.  finally, we headed over to the cheetah rehabilitation center where we learned about the process of bringing these rare and beautiful cats back into the wild, as well as the unique challenges faced when breeding these animals in captivity.  towards the end of the tour, we were given a chance to enter the secure cages and stand within a few feet of the cheetah, feasting on a piece of fresh chicken breast – *that was pretty cool.

we headed back to the lodge in time – at around 5~, to catch the tail end of the SA / Australia rugby game and sip a few beers before dinner was served.  after my shameful performance during the shortest lived jenga game (ever), we all decided to retire early to get some well-needed rest before the final early morning game drive before sunrise.

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the final game drive wasn’t as successful as the first – we were hoping to catch the wild cats on the way in, but didn’t see any.  throughout the day, lots of baboons and fast-food impala surfaced through the bushes and we even caught a flock of vultures eating the carcass of a dead elephant, but the rest of the game seemed eerily quiet, spotting a giraffe here and there – but no buffalo, leopards or lions.  maybe they had all disappeared to church?

the game drive lasted till about 3, and it was finally time to head back to the lodge, pack up our bags and say our goodbyes – closing the final chapter of a truly exceptional 3-day tour.

the ride back with peet made a lasting impression on me.  now here is a man with some real perspective.  we shared some very personal stories and thoroughly enjoyed getting to know each other, despite the fact that he laughed at only half of my jokes.  but listening to him speak about the history of this country, the zulu people, to the more politically charged topics such as apartheid, post-apartheid, HIV/AIDS and the change that we need to effect in this place – once again – was a blazingly sharp reminder of the complexities of south africa and the depths of its layers.

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whew, what a weekend.

i am extremely tired and exhausted, but now am back at the dunaverty for a night of good rest – with a backpack full of dirty clothes and a handful of memories that will last a lifetime.

we drove about 3-4 hours into the heart of zululand, driving along the coast towards st. lucia to the hluhluwe-imfolozi game reserve, which is the oldest game park in africa and the only formal conservation in kwazulu-natal where the big 5 (lion, leopard, buffalo, elephant, rhino) occur.

we settled in the backpacker lodge at around 10 and after a quick lunch – met with our safari guide jeff, who drove us into the reserve for several hours of game sightings and exciting stories along the way.

we saw lots of impalas, kudus, white rhinos, giraffes, zebras, elephants, hyenas, baboons, a handful of beautiful birds, vultures, eagles and abundant plant and tree life (marula).  towards the end, we were lucky enough to catch 2 sightings of male lions, a cheetah laying on the grass, and a small herd of buffalos.  the only big 5 cat we missed was the leopard.

the most exciting part about the game drive was observing how these animals interact.   from normal to aggressive behavior, we caught a pretty wide spectrum of life in the wild.  jeff was an expansive wealth of knowledge and we all learned an incredible amount about the terrain we were driving through.  he was also one hell of a grillmaster too – we all loved his ‘quick lunch’ scheme that turned out to be an hour of braaing medium rare steaks, sausages, pasta and beer at the rest stop.

shauna, one of the dutch girls, was absolutely frightened – and frightened like i’ve never seen before! by elephants and only elephants.  it was quite the scene.  terribly entertaining for us, dreadful for her

on the way back to the lodge, we ran into a blockade of 2 elephants that put on quite a lengthy display of playful aggressiveness … the jousting lasted for a good half hour, and our vehicle – along with 6 others, had no choice but to just sit quietly and hope they move!  an incredible sighting.  i don’t think i’ve never seen anything like it, being in such close distance to untamed game.

an hour later, we were all finally home — exhausted and drained from the wee hours of the morning, from the long bumpy ride in the reserve, and from the wind burn harsh enough to make one’s face feel numb.  to top off the night, we all sat around the picnic table enjoying the most delicious homemade macaroni and cheese dish and washed it down with cold beers.  after a few round of amarulas and another spare hour of entertaining stories, laughter and learning enough dutch phrases to get me in trouble, we called it a good night.

looking forward to day 2!

we met with a man who showed us the local church building that will be used to host the last meeting for the visiting NGOs tomorrow at 9am.  the purpose of this meeting will be to provide a forum for these community facilitators coming from various parts of South Africa to learn more about the concept of self help / savings groups and the components that make them effective structures for building towards financial and social self-reliance.  another important part of the forum will be to voluntarily gather family information in an effort to emphasize the value and importance of home-based care visits.

afterwards, daphne and i drove up to visit a group member that was part of the catering service used to host the first meeting which was held last monday – so that she could sign the receipt book and formally close the transaction.  as we were heading to her residence, i couldn’t help but notice how much color there is in swayimane – despite all the garbage strewn across the land and the general poverty of the area, there is a kind of vibrant color that floats in the air – a palette ranging from a woman’s unique garment and the green gardens that surround their homes, to the bright colors of laundry hanging on the lines to dry.

next, we spent the majority of the day spending time with the ‘thokomala’ savings group.  the group normally has about 15 members, but was short on attendance today.  a strict, but important policy of these savings groups is to issue a penalty fee for those who are unable to attend.  daphne and i spent the remaining hour carefully going over each personal savings records that every member is required to log, as well as the group minute book, to ensure that all transactions were up to date and accurate.  due to the recent months of weak financial growth, each member made an agreement to put in 10R extra from their own personal pension payments into the group fund, to help maintain a steady balance.

we then headed off to the final meeting of the day, which was another installment of catering services hosted by one of the SHGs for the visiting NGO members.  as usual, this meeting was initiated by prayer, followed by song/dance, communion and discussion amongst the community facilitators to address common concerns and to also prepare for the wrap-up meeting tomorrow morning.

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when i got home, i was shocked and saddened to hear about a death in the family of one of the neighbors to max and miranda.  a mother with a 2-month old baby had just lost her husband who was hit by a sugar-cane truck coming home from their father’s funeral.  the whole thing is unbelievably tragic and my deepest condolences go out to this family.  a few of their family friends and relatives from jo’burg are staying over tonight, and i cannot imagine the kind of heavy emotions that are being processed right now.  through this however, we were able to share a lovely dinner and i am very grateful for having met each and every one of them despite the unfortunate circumstances.  periods of tragedy and difficulty can really bring people together and i felt this to be one of those moments.

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tomorrow, i will be taking a day off for a 3-day weekend tour of the umfolozi/hluhluwe game reserve!

we met with the ‘bambanani’ SHG to discuss their current progress, as well as any immediate challenges
they face. an essential part of their group business is selling ‘daily’ soap products and vodacom cell phone minutes.  i was informed that their former bookwriter had left the group in order to devote more time and attention to her personal business needs.  to help resolve this loss, the group managed to elect 2 volunteers who would agree to learn how to write and follow strict procedures for managing their group savings under zimele’s guidance.  through the spirit of accountability, one particular woman expressed her desire to contribute to this responsibility, but also her inability to do so due to her need for reading glasses.  this is an example of some of the day to day struggles that can hamper group progress and the need for innovative solutions to address them.

we then moved on to discuss next steps and aspirations.  the women were particularly interested in purchasing chairs and tables that could be used as a group business in order to help facilitate local village meetings as well as special events such as funerals and worship services.  however, their main challenge was not affordability, but finding a way to transport these chairs and tables into their own homes – a frustrating example of the daily logistical challenges these women face.  we are currently working on providing additional transportation services to help these women achieve their goals.

on the way to our next destination, we stopped by a nearby spaza (roadside stand) – owned and operated by an SHG member, where we purchased some snacks and drinks to help us get through the day.  here i am buying a brand new oral-b toothbrush!

the second group we visited was the same group of NGO members and community facilitators that we met with the previous day, training under zimele principles to assess best practices, explore new funding strategies, stimulate innovative projects, streamline internal operations, and mobilize their members. they are currently in their 3rd year of working together with zimele, and although progress has been slow and steady, it can take up to 5 yrs to help these organizations move towards autonomy and self-sufficiency.  members of the zimele leadership team are working hard to provide the necessary resources and training to help these NGOs adopt similar principles of self-reliance.

‘kusakusa’, a group of about 6-7 women, helped facilitate this meeting by providing delicious meals through the use of their catering service, an additional income generator for their savings group.  this groups was also being organized to help teach other group members specific gardening techniques (carrots and cabbage) that they have acquired over the years through the assistance of a local farmer.  due to the growth potential from obtaining these skills, there is an increasing interest to help spread and broaden these skills to the rest of the community.

shortly after, we visited another woman who cultivates a garden outside her home which grows cabbage, beans, tubers, maize, and pumpkin. she is also a diabetic, and as a result of the lack of accessible treatment and care, the need for her to grow and sustain these kinds of vegetables as an essential part of her diet is extremely important. however, some of the most important and immediate challenges aren’t being met due to financial reasons, such as hiring a tractor to till the land and obtaining manure to enrich the soil.  this is yet another challenge that calls for a creative solution.

what was most profound however, was that despite her limitations and financial struggles, she was graciously willing to give away 2 of her beautiful pumpkins – an offer that really exemplifies the spirit of giving and relationship building.  i will happily pass these pumpkins on to Miranda, who according to Max, can make some of the most delicious pumpkin fritters!

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to be able to witness such joy and life that pour from the hearts of the Zulu women is incredibly encouraging and uplifting.  one can really see the strength of bonds and relationship at work where accountability and encouragement are the cornerstones of holding this community together and empowering its members.  these are the seeds that are being planted daily, and it is a deeply humbling experience for me to see with my own eyes that joy, passion and dignity are all gifts of God that can prevail in even the most dire circumstances.

today was my first day on the field.  the drive to swayimane took about an hour from maritzburg and despite the (very) limited space, i could not have asked for a better arrangement than to be sitting alongside audrey and daphne.  audrey is zimele’s manager of social development and brings a tremendous wealth of knowledge and experience.  daphne is a KZN native and plays a pivotal role as zimele’s self-help/savings group (SHG) program coordinator.  i am so blessed to be in their hands and i come to them with a wide open heart and mind.

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a vital part of zimele’s strategy for the rural communities of kwazulu-natal is the microsavings program.  the first phase of the micro savings program is the launch and growth of self help savings groups (SHG).  the SHGs can grow up to 10-20 women.  over the past 2 yrs, zimele has created over 40 SHGs, impacting more than 5000 people as a result – and by saving just R2 ($0.24) per week, they have collected a savings power of over R124,000.  as part of the self help savings group training, zimele provides business training to such entrepreneurs to assist them with the launch and growth of such businesses.

many participants in these self help savings groups start various individual or group micro businesses such as spazas (roadside stands), tuck (small grocery) stores, community gardens, catering businesses, and beauty salons.  others may enroll their children in schools, plant crops or repair homes.  with SHGs, cluster groups are then formed, where 1-2 representatives from up to 6-8 SHGs gather to discuss the needs of the wider community, address specific challenges, and provide support and accountability.
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on the way to swayimane, we drove through mostly rural areas – passing by vast stretches of privately owned sugar cane/maize farms, spectacular views of mountainous terrain and green fields, and scattered accents of thatched roofs from village homes and informal settlements.

we made a pitstop at the wartburg market.

the marketplace is full of energy and hosts a wide range of businesses, ranging from pay-per-use cell phone services, fruits and vegetable stands, made-to-go foods, to second-hand garment sales.  the market is also where women meet to pick up their pension payments.

the community at wartburg was fairly dense and seemed to attract mostly local laborers and migrant workers, while most of the shops and businesses were run by women – a trend seen in many microfinance communities.  the reason for this is that women’s status (both in their homes and in their communities) is elevated when they are responsible for managing loans and savings.  the ability to generate and control their own income can further empower poor women and have a significant impact on their families’ quality of life.  therefore, it is no surprise that zimele follows this principle through their SHG development work.

our main task today was to visit a few SHG meetings to monitor their progress.  monitoring is an important part of the success of SHG, and is encouraged at least once a month.  the first meeting that was being prepared was for a unique training session that involved 8 other NGOs from other areas of South Africa – namely, the east cape, limpopo and kwazulu-natal.  a catering service run by a group of 6-7 women provided a delicious meal that would provide the perfect stitch for banding the visiting groups together over song, prayer and dance.  the catering service was in itself a mark of success, as it provided additional income for those women.  zimele, an emerging leader in self reliance programs in the KZN area, has agreed to host these types of gatherings that involve other NGOs in swayimane as a training ground for their community facilitators – to address challenges and adopt best practices for managing SHGs.

in between waiting periods, we visited a nearby business owner who ran a spaza (roadside stand) selling phone service and food items to local taxi drivers, young children and elderly women.

the next SHG we visited was a relatively new operation, and was not more than 3 weeks old.
we met with a few of their members and were told that one of their primary businesses of selling
potatoes was put on hold, due to the off season – while another member was busy selling avocados.
as an important step in the process, there was a diligent woman who managed the savings book for keeping track of daily savings for each member of the group.  although the bookkeeping task was neat and well-kept, there were certain areas (such as keeping a running total) that could have been easily improved.  this is a good example of where Zimele would assist by providing assistance through ‘program modules’ to help comply to formal guidelines for managing savings accounts.  it was a strong and encouraging start for this new SHG.

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we spent the remainder of the day visiting other groups and following similar procedure.  along the way, we shared many funny stories, laughter, visions of hope and progress, were greeted by smiles from the community, witnessed struggles and sickness, played soccer with the children, got stuck in a mud ditch, and then danced for a few minutes upon getting out

what an incredible day.  i am exhausted by the heat and traveling, but am more overwhelmed and amazed by how much I have been able to see and learn so far.

– the ongoing fight against HIV/AIDS and the role of home-based care centers, deeply rooted cultural and social norms that impact resource management and decision making processes, agricultural challenges, fiscal responsibility and micro-business — to only name a few.

and yet, with all of these challenges lies perhaps the boldest – the tremendous spectrum of African identity – one that i do not dare to comprehend and can only wish to remotely embrace and inspect – that despite a complex history ravaged by war, disease and political corruption, there lies ubuntu – a special bond of shared humanity and social cohesion – a kindness and a gentleness that bleeds through the stories of these people and traditions that call upon the rest of the world to mimic.

i can only begin to understand and unravel these challenges in concrete terms.

as i make my first trip out to swayimane, i hope to bring with me some clarity and purpose with regards to all-of-the-above, but also knowing and expecting difficulties that will undoubtedly surface and perhaps, for good reason.  as an interesting aside, there was a short blurb today in the local paper about a few mba students from the university of kwazulu-natal, that have teamed up with zimele to explore new models of economic development in swayimane.  should timing work out, i may have the opportunity to meet some of these students and explore their research.  i am quite excited about this prospect.)

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evening supper was a wonderful experience.  i am extremely grateful for having Miranda and Max in my life.  they have been so loving and kind in innumerable ways already – as not only my host, but as dear friends.  they are such remarkable people -  both of Scottish descent – who have endured an unlikely and vast array of experiences, having been raised as Afrikaans during some of the most turbulent periods of South Africa – that continue to reach out into the post-Apartheid era and into today’s reality.  their stories are deeply personal and mixed with brave insight.  their stories of love, tragedy, apprehension, death, hope, and an impassioned desire for social change, felt like a rain of bullets and really spoke deeply to me tonight.

i await the next morning!

maritzburg is a very interesting village.  there is a gorgeous backdrop of hills and mountains that stretch out over the entire plain, and it carries with it a peaceful air of authenticity and intimacy.  driving from the airport and into the village, i noticed a consistent color … almost like a raw earthiness sprouting from the ground, enclosed by dense patches of green and finding its way into the brick homes that share the reddish-brown tint of the dirt roads.

as we continued to drive past the village markets and the occasional spread of shantytowns,  i could immediately sense the richness of life here – villagers hunched on the sidewalks, chatting and smoking, vehicles and taxis weaving through the lanes, convenience stores and wireless outlets packed densely in washed down buildings  – a swarm of energy fighting it’s way through rain and grit.

a few miles out, we almost ran over a huge flock of chickens and goats that were gleefully making their way up the hill.  audrey carefully drove around them and joked that perhaps they were on their way to sunday service   about a half an hour later, we drove up the windy dirt roads and in through the security gates of the dunaverty, the wonderful guest home of max and miranda train where i will be staying at for the remainder of the month.  though exhaustion had started to settle in, i was so glad and thankful for safely arriving into their warm hands.  over a hot cup of tea and a wonderful stew prepared by miranda, i quickly found my way into a new home – getting acquainted with a pair of lives that have already merged into mine.

after a restful evening, i woke up to a beautiful morning today – the birds are out, chirping loudly.  the rain has subsided and the sun is shining brightly through the window.  i took a few moments to walk around the home and into the fields wondering how strange, but wonderful it is to wake up to an entirely new setting – away from it all.

tomorrow, i head off into the fields.  i plan to spend most of today mainly resting and recovering from jet-lag, but also fully preparing my heart and my mind for the days of work ahead.  i pray for Him to give me strength and am thankful for what He has given and for what i have received.  my prayer and heart goes out to the families of kwazulu-natal, as i look forward to being in communion with them.

traveling in shorts and t-shirt was a bit of a rude awakening, as the weather here is pretty cold and chilly.  i resorted to buying an extra pair of warmups and long sleeves at the terminal adidas store to keep me from getting sick – i hadn’t the slightest idea this would be my first purchase using rand dollars!

as i stood in line to get through customs, i noticed anderson cooper from cnn was a few persons behind.  i saw him again in line to order sandwiches at subway.  he prefers the un-toasted subs.  i don’t.  end of story.

anyways, i have about another hour before transferring to a domestic flight headed for pietermaritzburg! i am exhausted, but thrilled to almost call it a final destination, though really – the beginning of a new experience – and to come face to face with audrey, her family, rosetta, max and miranda, and the rest of the KZN community.